In a celebration of talent and advocacy for pay equity, the 26th annual Costume Designers Guild Awards (CDGA) took center stage at NeueHouse Hollywood on February 21, 2024. Against the backdrop of ongoing discussions surrounding fair compensation, costume designer-stylist Shirley Kurata introduced the inaugural Vanguard Spotlight Award, presented to the influential performer Billie Eilish. Similarly, Francine Jamison-Tanchuck was lauded for her remarkable career achievements.
Amidst the glamour of the evening, calls for pay equity echoed throughout the ceremony, reflecting the industry’s collective push for fair treatment and recognition. Hosted by Wendi McLendon-Covey, the event showcased winners across nine categories, including a new addition honoring excellence in costume illustration. Notably, this year also marked the acknowledgment of primary assistant costume designers alongside their counterparts in each category.
The Vanguard Spotlight Award, a testament to the expansive realm of costume design beyond traditional mediums, underscored Eilish’s impact as a fashion icon. Kurata, known for styling Eilish’s acclaimed music video “What Was I Made For?,” highlighted the artist’s dedication to sustainability, individuality, and a vegan lifestyle.
Accepting her award in a striking Gucci ensemble, Eilish expressed gratitude for the transformative power of fashion in her life, tracing her passion for dress-up back to childhood memories with her mother. Lily Gladstone, adorned in a custom Valentino creation, used her moment on stage to honor Jacqueline West and Julie O’Keefe, whose meticulous costume designs for “Killers of the Flower Moon” enriched her portrayal of the character Molly.
The ceremony also recognized Francine Jamison-Tanchuck’s illustrious career spanning three decades, with actress Danielle Brooks affectionately referring to her as “Queen Francine.” The evening’s proceedings resonated with a strong theme of advocating for pay equity, with industry leaders emphasizing the importance of valuing costume designers as integral storytellers.
In a show of solidarity, attendees adorned themselves with symbolic attire, amplifying the message of fair compensation. The evening’s spotlight award recipient, Annette Bening, unable to attend due to illness, conveyed a powerful message of support for the ongoing negotiations surrounding pay equity.
As the Costume Designers Guild continues its efforts towards equitable treatment, the CDGA served as a platform to honor excellence, foster dialogue, and champion the indispensable contributions of costume designers in shaping cinematic narratives.
