Revisiting the contemporary voice with a vastly different notion of women’s liberation from “Miss Dior 1967” through the Dior Fall/Winter 2024 collection.
While other luxury brands are striving to grasp the current trends that fashion enthusiasts are interested in and endorsing vigorously to strengthen their position, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose a very different path for the French fashion house by presenting the Dior Fall/Winter 2024 collection, drawing inspiration from Dior’s contemporary archives, to lay the groundwork for the brand’s strong transition in the current era.
In the Dior Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri brings forth a runway filled with nostalgia with designs inspired by the past of the “Miss Dior 1967” collection. Maria Grazia Chiuri’s reverence for her predecessor Marc Bohan is not only evident through the minimalist color palette and timeless silhouettes of the 60s but also in the way the Italian designer incorporates patterns reminiscent of the art form into graffiti patterns on designs to convey her affection.
Returning to the year 1967—a period when not only Dior but also the entire luxury fashion landscape began significant changes—Marc Bohan succeeded Yves Saint Laurent’s mission to lead Christian Dior in shaping sophistication, defining elegance exclusively for the upper class through collections. At that time, the French giant introduced another luxury branch named Miss Dior, catering to young people with affordable prices and wardrobes filled with simple and sleek designs.
Marc Bohan joined Dior during a transitional period and successfully revolutionized the brand’s iconic image. Focusing on clean, delicate lines, far removed from the “grandiose” designs of his predecessor, Yves Saint Laurent, Bohan’s designs focused on celebrating elegance in simplicity. Marc Bohan’s design philosophy is encapsulated in the motto: “N’oubliez pas la femme” (translated: “Don’t forget the woman”). Indeed, a design revolution was initiated not only in Dior’s long-standing heritage but also had a significant impact on fashion trends at that time. As Marc Bohan pioneered the abandonment of “beauty standards” such as corsets and elaborate petticoats in favor of streamlined garment structures, easily mass-produced and suitable for public tastes and the era.
Continuing the legacy, the idea of liberating women’s essence in a contemporary voice is powerfully conveyed through the Dior Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The archive with iconic designs of the French luxury house such as A-line dresses, turtleneck sweaters, oversized puffer jackets with waist emphasis,… has been remade by Chiuri with a modern touch, complemented by trendy motifs such as: two-tone checker patterns in black and white dominating, corduroy collars with vertical stitches, double-breasted vests with a classic royal British collar…
When unveiled at the Paris Fashion Week runway, many questions arose about whether the Dior Fall/Winter 2024 collection would become a replica of Miss Dior in the past or not? The open-buttoned casual shirt, gold necklaces accentuating neutral-colored outfits, A-line skirts paired with seductive black stockings,… all contemporary elements clearly manifest under Chiuri’s modern artistic perspective will be a worthy answer to those questions.
Furthermore, the indigenous inspiration and nature of 1967 with woven patterns, bamboo, and rattan materials are also reproduced in the Dior Fall/Winter 2024 show. While in the 60s, Italian artist Gabriella Crespi contributed to creating a familiar natural environment, in 2024, multimedia artist Shakuntala Kulkarni is chosen by Maria Grazia Chiuri to arrange the audience space. Still on a runway with bamboo and rattan, however, the mysteries of the beauty of the body, of the woman’s soul are the essence of traditional bamboo and rattan armor of Indian female warriors.
Drawing inspiration from one of Dior’s most iconic collections from the past amid a plethora of competitors like Gucci Fall/Winter 2024, YSL Fall/Winter 2024 racing to catch up with the new trends of the French luxury fashion scene, is becoming a topic of interest and discussion among fashion enthusiasts and critics. However, in terms of the show’s communication effectiveness and the brand’s communication strategy, Dior may have achieved its desired goals.
Shortly after a series of media reports about the collaboration after 9 years of anticipation between Dior and fashion icon Rihanna, in the recent show, Dior has successfully stirred up all fronts on social media platforms thanks to the allure of its brand ambassadors, notably two artists from South Korea such as Jisoo (BLACKPINK) and Mingyu (SEVENTEEN).
